Should You Pay Off Your Mortgage Early? It Depends on Your Rate
The gut says kill the debt fast. The math says it hinges on one number — your interest rate. Here's how to actually decide.
Mortgages · down payment
Enter a home price and how much you want to put down to see the cash you'll need, the loan you'll carry, whether you'll owe PMI — and, if you're saving toward it, how long it takes to get there.
Down payment at every level
Same home price, five common down payments — loan size, PMI and illustrative monthly principal & interest at 6.5% over 30 years.
| Down % | Down payment | Loan amount | PMI | Monthly P&I* |
|---|
*Illustrative principal & interest only, at a fixed 6.5% APR over 30 years — taxes, insurance and any PMI are extra. PMI column shows "Yes" below 20% down, "—" at or above 20%.
Saving up to your down payment
Enter an amount you save each month to chart your path to the goal.
A down payment is the slice of a home’s price you pay in cash upfront; the lender finances the rest as your mortgage. It’s quoted as a percentage of the purchase price, so a 20% down payment on a $400,000 home is $80,000, leaving a $320,000 loan. The bigger your down payment, the smaller your loan — and everything that flows from it: your monthly payment, the interest you pay over time, and whether you owe mortgage insurance.
You’ve probably heard you need 20% down. That figure is real but widely misunderstood. It isn’t a minimum to buy — it’s the level at which lenders stop requiring private mortgage insurance. Put down less and you can still get a loan; you’ll just carry PMI until you build enough equity. The calculator above shows your down payment, loan amount and PMI status the moment you type a price and a percentage.
Private mortgage insurance is an extra charge that protects the lender if you stop paying — it does nothing for you except make a low-down-payment loan possible. It’s typically required on conventional loans when you put down under 20%, and commonly runs somewhere around 0.3%–1.5% of the loan per year, billed monthly. This tool uses a rough 0.5%-per-year estimate to give you a ballpark; your actual rate depends on your credit, the loan, and the size of your down payment.
The good news is PMI isn’t forever. As you pay down the balance — or as the home’s value rises — your equity grows, and lenders generally cancel PMI once you owe about 78–80% of the original value. Putting 20% down skips it from day one; putting less means paying it for a while, which is a real cost to weigh against buying sooner.
More down means a smaller loan, a lower monthly payment, no PMI at 20%, often a better rate, and less total interest. Less down means you keep more cash on hand and get into a home sooner, but you borrow more, pay PMI, and shoulder a larger payment. Neither is universally “right.” A buyer in a fast-rising market may do better buying now with 5% down than waiting two years to reach 20% while prices climb; a buyer with stable prices and a healthy income might prefer to save more and borrow less. The point is to see the trade-off in numbers rather than chase a single rule of thumb.
The table holds your home price fixed and runs it through five common down payments — 3%, 5%, 10%, 15% and 20%. For each, it shows the cash required, the resulting loan, whether PMI applies, and an illustrative monthly principal-and-interest payment at a fixed 6.5% over 30 years (taxes, insurance and PMI are extra). Read down the rows and you’ll watch the cash you need rise while the loan, the payment and the PMI burden fall — the whole trade-off on one screen.
The chart answers a different question: how long until you actually have the money. Tell it how much you save each month (and anything set aside already) and it plots your balance climbing as a smooth line, with a flat dashed line marking the goal. Where the two meet is your move-in horizon. Save more per month and the climbing line steepens, reaching the goal sooner; lower your target with a smaller down payment and the dashed line drops to meet you.
These figures are for planning and education, not financial advice. Loan programs, PMI rates and qualifying rules vary by lender — confirm the exact numbers with a mortgage professional before you commit.
There’s no single required amount — it depends on the loan. Conventional loans can go as low as 3% down for qualified buyers, FHA loans start around 3.5%, and some VA and USDA loans allow 0% down. The classic benchmark is 20%, because that’s the level at which you avoid private mortgage insurance (PMI). So the practical answer is anywhere from 0% to 20%+, with a clear trade-off: the less you put down, the smaller your upfront cash but the larger your loan, your monthly payment, and — below 20% — your PMI cost. Use the table in the calculator to see those numbers side by side for your price.
No. 20% is a threshold, not a rule. You can buy a home with far less down through conventional, FHA, VA or USDA loans. What 20% gets you is the right to skip private mortgage insurance, plus a smaller loan and lower monthly payment. Many buyers — especially first-timers — put down 3% to 10% and accept PMI to get into a home sooner rather than spending years more saving. Whether that’s worth it depends on how fast home prices and rents are rising versus how quickly you could save the difference.
Private mortgage insurance (PMI) protects the lender — not you — if you default, and it’s typically required on conventional loans when you put down less than 20%. It commonly costs roughly 0.3% to 1.5% of the loan per year, added to your monthly payment; this calculator uses a rough 0.5% estimate. You avoid PMI entirely by putting 20% down. If you don’t, you can usually have it removed later: most lenders cancel PMI once your loan balance falls to about 78–80% of the original home value, either through payments or rising home prices.
A bigger down payment shrinks your loan, lowers your monthly payment, can eliminate PMI, may earn you a better interest rate, and reduces the total interest you pay over the life of the loan. The downsides: it ties up a large chunk of cash that could otherwise stay in an emergency fund or be invested, and it can mean waiting longer to buy while you save. A smaller down payment gets you into a home sooner and keeps cash liquid, at the cost of a larger loan and likely PMI. The right balance depends on your savings, job stability, and how the housing market is moving where you’re buying.
That depends on your target and how much you set aside each month. Take the down payment amount you need, subtract anything you’ve already saved, and divide by your monthly savings to get the number of months. For example, a $40,000 goal with $20,000 saved and $1,500 a month left to save takes about 14 months. The calculator does this for you and charts your balance climbing to the goal, so you can see how saving more each month — or lowering your target with a smaller down payment — pulls the date forward.
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The gut says kill the debt fast. The math says it hinges on one number — your interest rate. Here's how to actually decide.
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